11. Turn the plate over and remove the primary valve pin (13). Remove the gasket (12) from the cover plate.
Clean covers, body and metal parts as necessary with a safety solvent as needed and allow to dry prior to reassembly. Do not use harsh solvents such as brake or carburetor cleaner on any of the non-metallic components as they will damage the material.
12. Insert the new primary valve pin (13) into the cover plate orifice from the top (body side) as shown.
13. Holding the valve pin (13) in place, turn the body plate (14) over. Place the valve pin spring (16) over the valve pin with the larger diameter end of the spring resting against the plate. Compress the spring and secure it in place by installing the “E” ring (17) retaining clip to the valve.
14. Install new gasket (12) making sure to align the small holes in the gasket to the matching holes in the plate (14).
15. Set new primary diaphragm (18) on the body (10). Screw hole spacing prevents improper orientation of the diaphragm.
16. Carefully place the primary cover (19) over the diaphragm (18). Hand-thread the screws (20) through the cover and plate (14) into the body (10).
17. Tighten the screws (20) and torque to 37-43 in-lb. (4.2-4.9 N•m) using a crisscross pattern.
18. Push the nose of the new secondary seat (8) through the hole in the end of the new secondary lever (6).
19. Assemble the secondary valve components removed during disassembly. Slide the fulcrum pin (7) through holes in the secondary lever (6) as shown in the photo.
20. Set the secondary spring (9) on its seat on the body (10), then position the secondary lever (6) and fulcrum pin (7) assembly on top of the secondary spring (9). Push down until the fulcrum pin seats and hold in place.
21. Insert screw (5).

22. Tighten screw to 29-35 in-lb. (3.3-4.0 N•m). Check the secondary lever height. Using a straight edge, the end of the secondary lever should 1/32" (0.794 mm) below the casting level.
NOTE: If the lever must be bent, remove from the body, bend, reinstall and check height. Bending the lever while installed may result in damage to the seat.
23. Align the secondary diaphragm (4) to the secondary lever (6) as shown. The end of the lever must protrude through the tab slot on the bottom of the new diaphragm after installation. The screw hole spacing prevents improper positioning of secondary diaphragm.
24. Add the secondary cover (3) and install the previously removed screws (2).
25. Tighten the screws (2) in a crisscross pattern and torque to 29-35 in-lb. (3.3-4.0 N•m) to complete the installation of the repair kit components.
26. Apply 100 psi of air pressure to the inlet side of the regulator and test for leaks. Draw a soap bubble across the regulator outlet to verify that no air is flowing through the outlet. If air escapes, the rebuild has failed and the regulator must be replaced. Actuate the primer button (found on early models) and the soap bubble should burst and air flow should be noted at the converter outlet. Use soap and/or a commercial leak detector solution to inspect the gasket seals around the perimeter of the converter for leaks. If leaks are found, the regulator must be replaced. If no leaks are found, the regulator can be reinstalled and returned to service.